JDreptiles

[Jordan1]

Heey gecko talk check out our site please let us know if we got wrong information.We will imidiatly remove it and start another research day.I think we got the tank sizes wrong but please let us know we are just beginning this site hope yous enjoy it.

 

[Styx]

I would nix some of the python info, in addition to being more specific on the species since pythons is very vague which can confuse people looking for care information. I'll cover a little about ball pythons, since I have several.

Picking up a ball python by the head is a sure way to not only hurt the animal, but hurt yourself by making is seriously ticked off.

Instead, if you have a snappy ball python, get something (something not sharp and something the snake cannot get hurt with if it strikes) to keep your hands out of range and lightly touch the animal on the top of the head - don't jab at it, just touch it lightly. They aren't called BALL pythons for nothing, and will usually curl into a ball out of defense. It's then safe to pick up the animal. If it is exceptionally aggressive, then the owner may need to purchase snake hooks to take the animal out or use gloves - YouTube has videos of people using snake hooks.

If they are tame, simply reach in with both hands and pick the animal up by the body, and support as much of the body as possible when handling the animal.

If you're rough with them they will be rough back - and they have a lot of sharp teeth.

And the most important thing when handling snakes - DO NOT HESITATE. Pick it up or don't, the end. Don't stand there, hands hovering, hyperventilating and angsting if it's going to bite you or not.

Balls only get up to 5 feet, generally they are around four feet as a mature adult.

Also be sure to mention feeding f/t or already dead prey is preferable to feeding live, as it is a safety issue, and definitely mention to never leave a live prey item in with your snake unattended.

I would recommend doing the same with the other animals in terms of being more specific about species, since reptiles are so vastly different in their care and needs. For example, your photo of a "gecko" enclosure wouldn't work for my L. Williamsi (Electric Blues), viper tailed geckos, mourning geckos, E. Agricolae, uroplatus, ect. And your python enclosure would be awesome for a ball python, but significantly less awesome for a Burmese python. You can always add more sections as your website grows.

So, a suggestion, maybe make it look like this:

Pythons
There are many different species of pythons and their care can deviate a great deal from that which I have listed. Some pythons can make excellent pets and others are for more experienced keepers. Research your specific python species before buying.

Ball pythons are a common pet in the reptile industry and can be tamed relatively easily and make good captives when cared for properly.... (And continue from here)

And then do that with dragons, geckos, ect.

In your 'cages' second, be sure to mention the necessity of a rheostat or thermostat to regulate the temperature of the heating element.

I like the layout of the website, the font is easy to read on the background and it's easy to navigate.

Hope this helps.

 

[kouneli]

Yeah, no where in the gecko portion does it say anything about commercial foods, such as Repashy. I know for sure that cresties can't thrive without it...or without something similar to Repashy such as Clark's or Komodo.
I personally think you should just toss the "Pythons", "Monitors", "Geckos", etc. since almost every reptile in those categories have separate care requirements.
Another thing. Are those pictures that you took? Or are they ones you found on the internet? I'd be worried about copyright infringement if you're using someone else's without their permission.
Otherwise, the website looks good, in my opinion. Great job on that.

 

[Jordan1]

Yes we got permission to use them we are changing the pictures shortly its just for a start and thanks for the advise we were kinda in a rush to get it published in time(Deadline) but we are making changes everyday we go on but we'll be sure to change and seperate the reptiles 1 by 1 thanks again ill post another link after we're finished.

 

[Jordan1]

Yeah im editing the website now, And im including the info suggested its not going to be 1 by 1 for the pythons(ball,burm,ret) because mainly they have the same care, but im talking a bit more and adding the information givin' can't wait til its ready!

 

[Josh2]

Lookin' good Jordan, keep up the good work!

 

[Caleb C]

Your blue-tongued skink picture is a blue-tailed skink and the bearded dragon is a water dragon/iguana. I still can't tell between them. Bearded dragon always require special lighting, and don't really require special substrate. Burmese has a extra M in it, and they get way bigger than 10 feet, you should specify on how big burms/retics get. It says to gently rob the beardie's back. For leo's there are giants, so you might want to specify on that as well. If you're measuring them using inches, stick with inches, don't use cm's and meters. You should also include the temp ranges that they require during the daytime, and there's minimal info on leo's for enclosures. For other pets, frog's shouldn't be handled at all, they have permeable skin and the chemicals and oils on our skin is harmful to them. Exceptions is spelled wrong for hermit crabs, and he died probably because it wasn't warm enough. They need it to be hot/humid. That's all I have for now

 

[Amanda1]

To second what Caleb said, your blue-tounge skink is a five-lined (aka blue-tailed) skink. Not commonly kept as pets as far as I know. Your pic of a bearded dragon is a water dragon (I can tell them apart). I would say 40-55 gallons is good enough for a ball python, but burmans and retics can be up to 20 feet long, so you would need a cutom-built huge enclosure for them (like the one you have pictures, which is nice, by the way). Snakes are natural escape artists, so enclosures need to be very secure. Some monitors, including savvies, can get up to 7 feet long, not just 3, so that's another thing you would need a custom enclosure for. Plus they tend to be pretty aggressive and have lots of bacteria in their mouths, so bites get infected easily and there is a risk for sepsis if it is not treated quickly. Nile monitors can also whip their tails pretty hard, which can cause cuts and bruises.

As for frogs, I definitely wouldn't recommend them for a child (except for dwarf or african clawed frogs, which are both aquatic and shouldn't be handled). Kids want to handle things, which isn't good for a frog. Pacman frogs get pretty big, and eat small mice as adults. They and other large frogs also can bite pretty hard.

I've never heard of rabbits eating anything sugary, but I could be wrong.

I think your care section is a little short. Every reptile has specific day/night temperature and humidity requirements, not to mention food (different types and how often), calcium/vitamin supplements, cleaning (many common household cleaners are toxic to reptiles), and environmental needs (some climb, some need extra hides, there are many different types of substrate, etc). Plus if your goal is to help people choose the right pet for them, you need to give information about temperments, aggression, how often they should or shouldn't be handled, activity levels, noise (some frogs and geckos have calls, which some people may find annoying), common illnesses, where/how to find an exotic vet (VERY IMPORTANT), and probably a lot of other things I can't think of right now.

If you're looking to expand, there are lots of other herps commonly kept as pets that you could add, like anoles, long-tailed lizards, uromastyx, iguanas, water dragons, corn snakes, turtles and torts, other gecko species. I'm probably forgetting something...

 

[Rylee]

You have a picture of a water dragon as said to be a bearded dragon on your website..

 

[Jordan1]

Yeah rabbbits eat sugary treats i have one myself

 

[Jordan1]

My hermit crabs were at room temperature 75oF But atmost times it was 80oF