Hello everyone, I'm in need of some advice from you Herps. I am getting an African Fat Tailed Gecko. I've spent days searching online and have read dozens of care sheets, but I can't seem to find the specific information I'm looking for. It seems that the standard care sheet states that a 10 gal tank is the minimum size for housing an AFT. Is there a maximum? I decided to get an Exo Terra terrarium in the 24" wide x 18" deep x 12" high size. Is that too big? I could get the 18 x 18 x 12 size if it they prefer cozier living quarters. I have a bearded dragon, and his philosophy is the bigger the better when it comes to his living quarters, but then he never feels the need to hide either. An AFT might not appreciate the extra room a 24 x 18 x 12 provides beyond that of a 10 gal tank. My only reptile experience is my Beardie, so I need some input. The next issue is the UTH. They seem to be sized by gallons (20-30 gal or 50-60 gal etc) but my Exo Terra is sized by dimensions, not gallons. How do I determine what size of UTH I need to buy for my 24 x 18 x 12 terrarium (or smaller if I need to exchange mine for a smaller size). Is there a certain percentage of floor space that needs to be covered by the UTH? Is it better to run the UTH front to back in the tank or side to side? I don't relish the idea of removing the adhesive and "permanently" applying a UTH to my new terrarium just to test what the temps might be with any given size. There must be a better way to figure this out. Any thoughts? Also, I'd love opinions on whether Zoo Med or Zilla's UTH is currently better. Thanks for the help! I really appreciate it!
Please help with terrarium size and UTH size for an AFT
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geckobabies
African Fat Tails <3
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That answer is debatable and would depend on what size Fat Tail you are getting and how that gecko has been kept. Fat Tails are not like Bearded Dragons, or other lizards, they do not require a large amount of space to be happy. They need a space large enough to allow proper heat gradients, but small enough to feel secure and find their food easily. I keep my adults in tubs that measure 21.5" x 15.5" and it's plenty of room. I keep my hatchlings and juveniles in 6qt Sterilite totes until they are at least 25g if not bigger.
Fat Tails need a good humid hide box and small areas they can crawl into and feel secure. They will not climb and perch and bask like a Bearded Dragon will. They are nocturnal and will not appreciate bright lights.
I personally prefer Zoo Med over other heat mats, but I could not tell you from experience, only that Zoo Med has been around a long time. You want a pad that covers roughly 1/3 or a little less of the tank. I would place it front to back. It needs to get hot enough to give them a hot spot of about 90 degrees. The cool zone can comfortably get into the low 70s as long as you keep the hot spot on. They will travel back and forth to regulate their bodies.
Hopefully that helps get you started. Congrats on your first Fat Tail, they are awesome geckos
Fat Tails need a good humid hide box and small areas they can crawl into and feel secure. They will not climb and perch and bask like a Bearded Dragon will. They are nocturnal and will not appreciate bright lights.
I personally prefer Zoo Med over other heat mats, but I could not tell you from experience, only that Zoo Med has been around a long time. You want a pad that covers roughly 1/3 or a little less of the tank. I would place it front to back. It needs to get hot enough to give them a hot spot of about 90 degrees. The cool zone can comfortably get into the low 70s as long as you keep the hot spot on. They will travel back and forth to regulate their bodies.
Hopefully that helps get you started. Congrats on your first Fat Tail, they are awesome geckos
Thank you! That was very helpful! My AFT is just three months old, so he's definitely still a geckobaby. He/she comes from a breeder who keeps them in tubs in a rack system. His tub is probably about the size you keep your young ones in. Do I need to keep him in something smaller until he's grown? I plan to feed him in a small tub for awhile to make sure he isn't overwhelmed with the space. I'm afraid I'm already feeling the addicting pull of these little guys and will likely have more than one (a few fat tails and a few leos sounds good). Because of that, I'd like to not go overboard on each individual enclosure (I plan to house them individually) and make it harder on myself to successfully arrange them in my house. That being said, I want to give each of them the maximum space they feel comfortable in. Would you stick with the 24 x 18 or size down to the 18 x 18 (both are 12 high)?
I appreciate knowing the rule of thumb is 1/3 or less floor space for the UTH. I bought a 30-40 gal and a 50-60 gal UTH because I wasn't sure which to use. The 30-40 gal looks like it would be smaller than 1/3 of the floor space and would fit running it front to back on one side of the tank. The 50-60 gal looks bigger than 1/3. I would have to run the 50-60 gal across the back of the tank and it would leave a little over half of the floor space unheated across the front of the tank with a little "L" shape at the end that is also not heated. I will go with the 30-40 gal size as you recommended. I should mention that I do tend to keep a cool house both summer and winter... does that change your opinion of which size to use at all?
Also, would you recommend a dimmer or a thermostat... or are they the same thing? And what is a rheostat? Is that in place of a dimmer/thermostat or in addition to it? Yes, I'm that ignorant! I'll be an expert by the time I'm through... I don't do anything half way... but I've never attempted a set up like this before. Our bearded dragon is my only reptile experience. I have a temp gun. Do I also need a thermometer? Do I need a humidity gauge (what are those called)? I will have a moist hide and I will mist his cage. I think I have all the other "care" info down well, it's just getting the enclosure itself set up in an optimum matter that has me concerned. I take my pet responsibilities seriously. Thanks again for your willingness to help out!
He/she comes from a breeder who keeps them in tubs in a rack system. His tub is probably about the size you keep your young ones in. Do I need to keep him in something smaller until he's grown? I plan to feed him in a small tub for awhile to make sure he isn't overwhelmed with the space. I'm afraid I'm already feeling the addicting pull of these little guys and will likely have more than one (a few fat tails and a few leos sounds good). Because of that, I'd like to not go overboard on each individual enclosure (I plan to house them individually) and make it harder on myself to successfully arrange them in my house. That being said, I want to give each of them the maximum space they feel comfortable in. Would you stick with the 24 x 18 or size down to the 18 x 18 (both are 12 high)? I appreciate knowing the rule of thumb is 1/3 or less floor space for the UTH. I bought a 30-40 gal and a 50-60 gal UTH because I wasn't sure which to use. The 30-40 gal looks like it would be smaller than 1/3 of the floor space and would fit running it front to back on one side of the tank. The 50-60 gal looks bigger than 1/3. I would have to run the 50-60 gal across the back of the tank and it would leave a little over half of the floor space unheated across the front of the tank with a little "L" shape at the end that is also not heated. I will go with the 30-40 gal size as you recommended. I should mention that I do tend to keep a cool house both summer and winter... does that change your opinion of which size to use at all?
Also, would you recommend a dimmer or a thermostat... or are they the same thing? And what is a rheostat? Is that in place of a dimmer/thermostat or in addition to it? Yes, I'm that ignorant! I'll be an expert by the time I'm through... I don't do anything half way... but I've never attempted a set up like this before. Our bearded dragon is my only reptile experience. I have a temp gun. Do I also need a thermometer? Do I need a humidity gauge (what are those called)? I will have a moist hide and I will mist his cage. I think I have all the other "care" info down well, it's just getting the enclosure itself set up in an optimum matter that has me concerned. I take my pet responsibilities seriously. Thanks again for your willingness to help out!
geckobabies
African Fat Tails <3
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- 867
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- Northern, VA
You are welcome I don't mind helping where I can but I should say that I would follow the instructions from whomever you are buying the gecko from as if you don't they may not guarantee it. Having said that...
If the baby has been raised in a rack system jumping to even an 18x18 home is going to be huge. I would go with this size as the only real advantage I could see with the 24" would be the heat gradient to get away from the heat.. but since you said your house remains cool then that should not be a huge issue. The 1/3 rule is just general.. it really just depends on the cage/setup and ambient temps in your house. If they are in the low 70s all the time or lower you may wish to choose a larger heat pad to get the desired temps. They don't need a huge space at 90 degrees a small space is fine.. enough for them to crawl onto and get warm and/or hide in. 1/3 of the cage does not need to be 90 degrees, but a larger pad may help keep the ambient temps up closer to the mid to high 70 range which is perfect for the cool end.
Temp guns are more accurate I would stick with that. A thermometer is only going to tell you what the ambient temps are inside the cage. If it's an accurate one, it certainly will not hurt, but your temp gun will be more accurate on the ground where your gecko is. He will also tell you more than any gauge ever will. If he's always on the heat pad it's too cold. If he's always off the heat pad it's to warm. If he goes on and off it it's about right.
If you can afford it I would recommend a Herpstat controller. They are the best IMO and they keep the temperature exactly what you set it at. A rheostat/dimmer is manually controlled. The biggest downside to them is your settings will change depending on the ambient temps inside the cage and house.. so you will have to adjust it more. You would want a digital thermometer on the heat side with a dimmer so you could easily see when it needs to be dialed up or down. They are better than nothing, but I would def choose a Herpstat or even a Herpstat 4 if you are eventually going to have a lot of tanks. It can control up to 4 devices. You don't really need a hygrometer (humidity) as long as you provide a moist hide box that has a lid and contains moisture. If you can see water forming on the inside and top of the box it's good. You don't want the entire cage to be humid. They are not a tropical species. They burrow down in the ground where it's more humid... they don't live in the rainforest.
Having said all of that. If you are planning on getting a couple of geckos I would seriously consider looking into a smaller hatchling rack such as Animal Plastics or RhinoRaXX. You will not accomplish a pretty natural habitat if you are looking to do that, but you will effectively keep them happy and save yourself time and money and ease of cleaning. Just something to think about before you invest into your setup to much.
I would also be very cautious about removing the gecko from it's home to feed. I'm not saying it won't work, each Fat Tail is different.. but in general they are very shy and more cautious than Leopard Geckos and other geckos. Constantly taking it in and out of it's cage may defeat the entire purpose of letting it adjust and feel comfortable to eat. Just something to think about. Most are not like baby dragons who run anywhere and everywhere to eat. Fat Tails are definitely more shy in general.
I don't mind helping where I can but I should say that I would follow the instructions from whomever you are buying the gecko from as if you don't they may not guarantee it. Having said that...If the baby has been raised in a rack system jumping to even an 18x18 home is going to be huge. I would go with this size as the only real advantage I could see with the 24" would be the heat gradient to get away from the heat.. but since you said your house remains cool then that should not be a huge issue. The 1/3 rule is just general.. it really just depends on the cage/setup and ambient temps in your house. If they are in the low 70s all the time or lower you may wish to choose a larger heat pad to get the desired temps. They don't need a huge space at 90 degrees a small space is fine.. enough for them to crawl onto and get warm and/or hide in. 1/3 of the cage does not need to be 90 degrees, but a larger pad may help keep the ambient temps up closer to the mid to high 70 range which is perfect for the cool end.
Temp guns are more accurate I would stick with that. A thermometer is only going to tell you what the ambient temps are inside the cage. If it's an accurate one, it certainly will not hurt, but your temp gun will be more accurate on the ground where your gecko is. He will also tell you more than any gauge ever will. If he's always on the heat pad it's too cold. If he's always off the heat pad it's to warm. If he goes on and off it it's about right.
If you can afford it I would recommend a Herpstat controller. They are the best IMO and they keep the temperature exactly what you set it at. A rheostat/dimmer is manually controlled. The biggest downside to them is your settings will change depending on the ambient temps inside the cage and house.. so you will have to adjust it more. You would want a digital thermometer on the heat side with a dimmer so you could easily see when it needs to be dialed up or down. They are better than nothing, but I would def choose a Herpstat or even a Herpstat 4 if you are eventually going to have a lot of tanks. It can control up to 4 devices. You don't really need a hygrometer (humidity) as long as you provide a moist hide box that has a lid and contains moisture. If you can see water forming on the inside and top of the box it's good. You don't want the entire cage to be humid. They are not a tropical species. They burrow down in the ground where it's more humid... they don't live in the rainforest.
Having said all of that. If you are planning on getting a couple of geckos I would seriously consider looking into a smaller hatchling rack such as Animal Plastics or RhinoRaXX. You will not accomplish a pretty natural habitat if you are looking to do that, but you will effectively keep them happy and save yourself time and money and ease of cleaning. Just something to think about before you invest into your setup to much.
I would also be very cautious about removing the gecko from it's home to feed. I'm not saying it won't work, each Fat Tail is different.. but in general they are very shy and more cautious than Leopard Geckos and other geckos. Constantly taking it in and out of it's cage may defeat the entire purpose of letting it adjust and feel comfortable to eat. Just something to think about. Most are not like baby dragons who run anywhere and everywhere to eat. Fat Tails are definitely more shy in general.
Thank you! I can't tell you how much I appreciate your help! I have begun wondering myself about the possibility of needing a rack system. Although I don't want to jump in to something just because those big AFT eyes have cast a spell on me! I already want several AFT morphs as well as several Leo morphs.
I can see how a 24x18 would be overwhelming to a young AFT, but would it be a better size for an adult? Assuming I stay with a terrarium? If that size would be preferable for an adult, I could always find a way to section off a smaller living area while he's young. If the 18x18 size is the optimal size for an adult, then I'll just return my larger one for the smaller option. What are your thoughts on the optimal size living quarters for an adult?
I noticed a thread you posted on a different gecko forum with pics of your 2013 AFT babies. I was smitten with the pics of the banded oreo. That face! Loved it! You have some pretty babies.
Since you have both AFT's and Leo's... could you comment on whether one or the other is more suited for a family pet? Does either of them seem more friendly or people oriented or to enjoy being handled? I'll probably end up with some of both, but I'm just curious.
Thanks again! You have been wonderful to help me. I've read so many care sheets I can practically quote the basics word for word, but they all seem very general. When you have no experience at all in gecko husbandry, a few specifics are greatly appreciated!
I can see how a 24x18 would be overwhelming to a young AFT, but would it be a better size for an adult? Assuming I stay with a terrarium? If that size would be preferable for an adult, I could always find a way to section off a smaller living area while he's young. If the 18x18 size is the optimal size for an adult, then I'll just return my larger one for the smaller option. What are your thoughts on the optimal size living quarters for an adult?
I noticed a thread you posted on a different gecko forum with pics of your 2013 AFT babies. I was smitten with the pics of the banded oreo. That face! Loved it! You have some pretty babies.
Since you have both AFT's and Leo's... could you comment on whether one or the other is more suited for a family pet? Does either of them seem more friendly or people oriented or to enjoy being handled? I'll probably end up with some of both, but I'm just curious.
Thanks again! You have been wonderful to help me. I've read so many care sheets I can practically quote the basics word for word, but they all seem very general. When you have no experience at all in gecko husbandry, a few specifics are greatly appreciated!
geckobabies
African Fat Tails <3
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- Northern, VA
Thank you I like the Oreos myself. Tons of photos on our website and Facebook page.
You are very welcome. I understand about the care sheets, it's confusing at first but once you get into it common sense prevails and you will be good to go. As long as they have adequate security, proper heat, food gutloaded and dusted with proper calcium and vitamins, and a good moist hide box the rest is easy.
If you are going to section off the tank (which is a good idea btw) it really does not matter either way. Every breeder would probably give you a different answer. I think an adult Fat Tail would be just fine in 18x18 but if you like the 24x18 as long as the heat is good and it has adequate hiding spots it will be fine. If you are going for a more naturalistic environment I would probably pick the 24x18 as "widescreen" vs "full screen" is much more appealing in my eyes LOL.
Fat Tails are normally more docile and slower moving than Leopard Geckos. I think they both make great pets. Both will be flighty when babies but Leopards are worse IMO. As Leopard age they tend to calm down more. Fat Tails even as babies are usually pretty calm. They also have a much softer skin feel to them and they have different attitudes. You're asking a Fat Tail Gecko chick to pick sides I am biased lol
I like the Oreos myself. Tons of photos on our website and Facebook page. You are very welcome. I understand about the care sheets, it's confusing at first but once you get into it common sense prevails and you will be good to go. As long as they have adequate security, proper heat, food gutloaded and dusted with proper calcium and vitamins, and a good moist hide box the rest is easy.
If you are going to section off the tank (which is a good idea btw) it really does not matter either way. Every breeder would probably give you a different answer. I think an adult Fat Tail would be just fine in 18x18 but if you like the 24x18 as long as the heat is good and it has adequate hiding spots it will be fine. If you are going for a more naturalistic environment I would probably pick the 24x18 as "widescreen" vs "full screen" is much more appealing in my eyes LOL.
Fat Tails are normally more docile and slower moving than Leopard Geckos. I think they both make great pets. Both will be flighty when babies but Leopards are worse IMO. As Leopard age they tend to calm down more. Fat Tails even as babies are usually pretty calm. They also have a much softer skin feel to them and they have different attitudes. You're asking a Fat Tail Gecko chick to pick sides I am biased lol
I'm feeling much better about the whole housing/heating thing. Thank you! I might be in touch again down the road because my most favorite morph is the White Out and you have some lovely ones. I am crazy about White Outs! I also like the White Out Oreos and the Oreos. I was up until 2 am last night googling those morphs and dreaming of which ones I wished were mine. I think I'm in trouble! How did this happen? I only intended to get a nice pet for my son's birthday and suddenly I'm dreaming of becoming a collector... or possibly a small hobby breeder... of AFT geckos. I blame those eyes. Seriously. They are ridiculously adorable. And I've never been a herp enthusiast per se. I don't have anything against reptiles, I think they are interesting, but I've mostly stuck with mammals and birds. But these guys have changed my mind. I'm in love. I do have to say I'm a bit concerned about the whole tail dropping thing... does that happen a lot? If they are housed singly and handled gently, is it still inevitable at some point? I really want to avoid that! I want them to be pets, not just something to look at though... is that unrealistic? It seems like I see more pictures of AFT's with regenerated tails than Leos. Are AFT's more likely to drop their tails? Back to the White Out subject... some of the White Outs show a lot more white than others and some are more "filled in". How do you get more white in the White Out? Some White Out Oreo pics I've seen show a lot of white and contrast... is that normal for that cross or is it just an individual thing? Do the White Outs change in color/pattern as the grow or can you tell what you have as a hatchling? I really should just call you! So many questions!
Seriously. They are ridiculously adorable. And I've never been a herp enthusiast per se. I don't have anything against reptiles, I think they are interesting, but I've mostly stuck with mammals and birds. But these guys have changed my mind. I'm in love. I do have to say I'm a bit concerned about the whole tail dropping thing... does that happen a lot? If they are housed singly and handled gently, is it still inevitable at some point? I really want to avoid that! I want them to be pets, not just something to look at though... is that unrealistic? It seems like I see more pictures of AFT's with regenerated tails than Leos. Are AFT's more likely to drop their tails? Back to the White Out subject... some of the White Outs show a lot more white than others and some are more "filled in". How do you get more white in the White Out? Some White Out Oreo pics I've seen show a lot of white and contrast... is that normal for that cross or is it just an individual thing? Do the White Outs change in color/pattern as the grow or can you tell what you have as a hatchling? I really should just call you! So many questions!
geckobabies
African Fat Tails <3
- Messages
- 867
- Location
- Northern, VA
Tail drops are fairly common in both species. I personally have only experienced it a handful of times with hundreds and hundreds of babies. If you are careful and handle them properly the odds are very reduced. However, sometimes it just happens with a spaz gecko. I think you see more with Fat Tails because more Fat Tail photos show imported photos and it's quite common with imports due to the stress of shipping and vast numbers that are crammed together.
White Outs are pretty random with their color/pattern. Ugly brown adults can throw pretty white babies and vice versa. Having said that I still think good genetics help produce better babies. I can usually tell within a few weeks which babies are going to be "whiter" and which babies are going to be "browner" but there is no way to know for sure. The White Out Oreos on a whole stay much more white and black/brown thus making them a very desired morph.
Be careful they are def addicting lol. Please feel free to touch base anytime. I produce a lot of White Outs, White Out het Oreos, White Out Oreos and Oreos and would be happy to help you get into them. Good luck wiith your new baby
White Outs are pretty random with their color/pattern. Ugly brown adults can throw pretty white babies and vice versa. Having said that I still think good genetics help produce better babies. I can usually tell within a few weeks which babies are going to be "whiter" and which babies are going to be "browner" but there is no way to know for sure. The White Out Oreos on a whole stay much more white and black/brown thus making them a very desired morph.
Be careful they are def addicting lol. Please feel free to touch base anytime. I produce a lot of White Outs, White Out het Oreos, White Out Oreos and Oreos and would be happy to help you get into them. Good luck wiith your new baby
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