Hi. So I am over a month into being a lizard owner. After adopting my Gizmo from a family member, I went ahead first in to research on how to get her to eat let alone care for her! She is doing great it seems, eating, going to the bathroom seemingly normal.. I wanted to post how things are going and how I am doing, as well as the setup, in hopes of getting some positive feedback or suggestions on how I am doing. You read so many different opinions on the way to do things. For instance, I was interested in giving her some sort of substrate to dig and curl up in/on.. right when I think I found something safe and good for my setup, I read it's not safe .... Anyway... I have her at a routine of 87 to 91 during the day, from the temp gauge, on the basking side. And roughly 75 to 78 in evening. She has a heating pad that stays on constantly. The basking spot bulb 50 w on a timer. A uvb florescent 13 w bulb on only a couple hrs or so a day. 20g long tank. Pure calci carbonated in a bowl. Reptivite with D3 maybe every other feeding. The Worms have cricket quencher & cricket diet high calci in their tank (I bought that when I tried crickets...which were a no go), I sometimes put veggies in their tank. I keep most in the fridge and take out several each week for the tank. I do find her in her basking hut but mostly in her cool hut (she spent most of her 2 years in a 10 g with just this hut). She does go in her make shift humid hut a times and likes that. She eats well enough, likes to see them move before going for them. I have non adhesive liner for the bottom. I would like to know about substrate just for the cool side maybe. So many different opinions! I would like to make her tank more interesting for her. I realize her basking hut is just to big. I would love ideas and thoughts. Thank you and sorry this is so long
Thoughts/suggestions
- Thread starter Pb48
- Start date
- Messages
- 15,156
- Location
- Somerville, MA
It looks to me as if the enclosure is already pretty interesting. One thing you might look into: there are hammocks for leopard geckos, If you install one, your gecko should be able to climb on the flat topped hide and get onto the hammock. Everything sounds pretty good, as long as those temperatures are ground and not air. The gecko doesn't really need a basking light, but it's not a problem. Many people no longer keep calcium in the cage since the gecko can end up getting too much of it. I use ceramic tile as a substrate and am very happy with it. My humid hides have coco fiber in them so they can dig if desired.
Aliza
Aliza
Thank you so much for your reply!! I love the idea of the hammock! I have paper towel in the humid hut but I wonder about that coco fiber.. you keep that sprayed for moist? And keeping the cool side with just the liner is probably good as it feels cool for her to lay on I'm sure. . I keep the basking light on through the day for the day/night routine as well as helping to maintain the heat. I appreciate your thoughts as I'm getting more used to being a gecko owner. Funny side note.. I saw how someone played paper towel where they tend to 'go' and I decided to do that...she went next to it..not on it!
Hi,
A few questions:
Highly recommend a larger enclosure. This will allow more space for exploring and enrichment. The smaller the enclosure, the more they try to escape at night. Size will also allow more of a light(UVB and basking source and shade area(less light).
Do you have the UTH controlled by a thermostat?
Is your basking bulb dimming thermostat?
Do you feed a varied diet?
Do you check the humidity with a digital hygrometer in the enclosure and the humidity hide?
Is her cool side under 75?
If you answer no to any of these questions above, loose substrate is not recommended by me. Failure to provide these will make your Leo more susceptible to impaction and other health problems. Sorry if it seems direct but it's the most time efficient way I can answer.
I recommend Summer(14 hours light/12 hours dark, Winter 12 hours light/12 hours dark.
Last edited:
Hi thank you for your reply. she is in a 20g long for being in a 10 for almost 2 yrs. She appears to be content with this as I can tell although I do agree a larger habitat would be ideal. Her uth is not on a thermostat, ihave a thermostat going into the tank and I place the end close to the backside of the large hot enclosure for more accurate reading from uth. Good question on what temp the cold side is… right now (4pm) her cold side is 75/76 depending on where I aim the temperature reading gun. i usually find her over there during day and in hot hut ain the morning when I wake (5am)...temp in hot hut around that time before lights come on is usually around 76/77. I have never seen it drop below 75. As we get closer to winter I will need to keep a better eye on this though.her diet is made up of meal worms (as her basic meal..this was what she lived on mostly before I got her), wax worms as a treat, and super worms when I can find them in the stores. I have tried crickets she turns her nose up. However this was when I first got her, I wonder if now she might try them she has a humidity gauge sitting on top of the humid hot at the moment (it was stuck to the glass and fall off
). I keep a fan on on the floor in the room to try to keep the humidity down, and keep the water dish on farther side from hot side...a bigger tank would help with that as well .Her uth is not on a thermostat
I highly recommend a thermostat because it seems that they don't have the same withdrawl reflexes we humans have, therefore are prone to burns. I googled a picture to show you.
www.veterinary-practice.com
ihave a thermostat going into the tank and I place the end close to the backside of the large hot enclosure for more accurate reading from uth.
Did you mean a thermometer?
I have tried crickets she turns her nose up. However this was when I first got her
Worth trying again.
I highly recommend a thermostat because it seems that they don't have the same withdrawl reflexes we humans have, therefore are prone to burns. I googled a picture to show you.
Wound management in reptiles
Thermal burns are a common presentation for a range of different reptile species. It is unknown exactly why they are so prone to thermal injury, but it has been theorised that reptiles have different pain receptors compared to mammals. This could explain the lack of withdrawal reflex in response...
www.veterinary-practice.com
ihave a thermostat going into the tank and I place the end close to the backside of the large hot enclosure for more accurate reading from uth.
Did you mean a thermometer?
I have tried crickets she turns her nose up. However this was when I first got her
Worth trying again.
Thank you! Maybe I do mean thermometerHer uth is not on a thermostat
I highly recommend a thermostat because it seems that they don't have the same withdrawl reflexes we humans have, therefore are prone to burns. I googled a picture to show you.
Wound management in reptiles
Thermal burns are a common presentation for a range of different reptile species. It is unknown exactly why they are so prone to thermal injury, but it has been theorised that reptiles have different pain receptors compared to mammals. This could explain the lack of withdrawal reflex in response...
ihave a thermostat going into the tank and I place the end close to the backside of the large hot enclosure for more accurate reading from uth.
Did you mean a thermometer?
I have tried crickets she turns her nose up. However this was when I first got her
Worth trying again.
. A digital readout that goes into the bottom of the tank. I will look into this! Thank you for the picture! She always had a reptile carpet before I got her. I read the dangers on that and switched to the shelf liner but I wondered about the heat on her belly. She is off to the side more Han middle when she is inside the hot hut. Maybe placing a piece of the reptile carpet in there?Sorry. I'm not sure what you meant. What would be the purpose?
She's never had a lay box?
A larger enclosure is definitely a good idea. It seems that the more you want to make better for your pets the bigger and enclosure is needed I love the idea of a larger water dish. How often should they soak? Like right now whereas I have a smaller dish should I be taking her out and soaking her once every couple weeks giving her a little bath? I did get a hammock for her to climb up on and some Eco Earth that I put in her humid hut and out just around the middle part..
larger enclosure is definitely a good idea. It seems that the more you want to make better for your pets the bigger and enclosure is needed
Exactly, this is why it’s best to start as big as possible. You will need a good amount of space to add and/or create new stimulating items.
How often should they soak?
They can soak when they desire. It’s their body their choice.
I love the idea of a large water dish.
I recommend it because it can help them regulate their body temperature. Some people will not spend the money on a thermostat which leads to the cool side overheating. Soaking can help them cool down.
Their skin repels water and so I think soaking for hydration is a myth(I could be wrong). Have you noticed how water just rolls off their skin? I don’t think bathing them is necessary. Just pick up the poop as soon as noticed. Clean their water bowl and replace water daily.
In my opinion it’s best to provide the tools and just allow them to be self sufficient. The less stress we cause them, the better off they will be.
I agree completely! Thank you
Visit our friends
